The Town Fryer, St Helens. 8/10

It ain’t about the dollar or trying to go fast
Unless you take pride in what you’re doing, it won’t last
Craftsmanship is a quality that some lack
You got to give people a reason for them to come back

Buck 65, Craftsmanship

There’s no point messing folk about for the sake of a few pence. You’ve got to give people what they asked for or they won’t come back.

The guy who served me, The Town Fryer, St Helens

This is one of the best fish and chip shops in Merseyside. It might have been the best I’ve found, but we’ll come back to that. In any case what is apparent is that the guys who run this chippy really care about doing their job right. I’ve been three times and the same two guys have been working there – an almost scarily focussed chef, and a chirpy, friendly server, who knows how to give his customers what they want. Each of them has thought about his trade and is paying attention to doing it as well as he can.

They have got the difficult parts right: the fish is possibly the best I’ve tasted in the western half of England – it actually tastes of fish, so they are obviously using good fish and presumably paying a little bit more for that. The batter is extremely good too. They seem to know this, because they also do scraps, which seems to be something of a rarity in the north west. Again, it’s possibly the best batter I’ve tasted outside Yorkshire and Newcastle.  All in all it’s not too greasy and the portion size is right: it’s enough food but it doesn’t leave you feeling ill.

Where they have let themselves down slightly is the easy part, the chips. They cook them in vegetable oil, which I guess is a decision to cater for vegetarians. This is admirable, but it does mean you get that slightly chemically taste. That’s a coin with two sides to it, and obviously any St Helens veggies who like chips will be pleased by it, but for me it doesn’t taste as good. They’re also losing half a point because a couple of times that I’ve been the chips have been a bit too dry. This is not entirely fair, because it has been at around 4.30 each time, and really I should be (and am, in fact) pleased that they were open at all (they’re open 12 through to 8 or 9). So the chips I had had probably sat there a while, and if I’d gone for my tea at a sensible time I would have probably had a better result. The fish they cook to order and it’s lovely.

In any case this shop stands next to Marigolds of West Kirkby in the almost-top bracket. If they could improve the chips, they’d be way out in front.

Brett’s and Bryan’s, Headingley, Leeds. 8-9/10

The two rival chippies brooding at each other from either end of Leeds’ student district. Legend has it (I think) that one was founded by a disgruntled former employee of the other – like Megadeth and Metallica in that respect. In any case the competition keeps both at the top of their field.

Sure, there are ebbs and flows, swings and roundabouts. Sometimes Brett’s will have an off year while Bryan’s gains the ascendancy, and at other times the former will be flavour of the month while the latter disappoints. Generally, over the last decade they’ve been as good as each other, with Bryan’s risking a darker batter which is normally rich and perfectly judged, but occasionally a little too dry; while Brett’s batter is lighter, a touch stodgier, and the fish from time to time a touch too greasy.

The above flaws are occasional and slight, mentioned only to distinguish between the two. They fluctuate but they’re both very good. The best way to decide between the two is to base it on what point in the Otley run you want to eat.

Marigold’s, West Kirby, 8.5/10

14 Banks Road, West Kirby, Wirral.

Last visit: Sat 30 July.

My ongoing quest to find nice fish and chips within striking distance of Liverpool took a turn for the better today, albeit at the far corner of the Wirral. Everything was good about this experience, the chips were fresh and soft, the fish had been successfully skinned and filleted and tasted nice, the batter was good, and they had scraps too. £5 for take out is a little expensive, but as Kevin Keegan said on buying Warren Barton, if you want quality, you’ve got to pay for it.

The fact that you can go for a walk along the beach while you eat doesn’t count against them.

I’ve marked them down from a 9, only because the last time I went we had slightly leathery chips. But it’s still the best I’ve found around Liverpool for a while.